This is a slightly different version from that published in Birding World, 1995.
Jordan, or the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan to give it its full title, is a relatively small country with a great variety of dramatic habitats ranging from mountain forests to desert oases, from mountains and cliffs to sweeping deserts and from deep gorges to broad wadis. It possesses a large and varied avifauna, sufficient to rival any Western Palaearctic region of similar area, but it remains poorly explored and its birdlife little studied - this is all the more surprising when you consider the ease of access, friendly people and relatively low cost of living.
Many birders will have visited its western neighbour, Israel, but how many have contemplated what wonders lie over the border fence? There are obviously many similarities between the birds of the two countries, but also sufficient differences to warrant a visit, even if you can only manage a short excursion from Eilat across the newly-opened border. This summary concentrates on sites in the southwest of Jordan - those most easily accessible from Aqaba. More comprehensive information will soon be available in Andrews (in press).
Jordan's regions
The eastern flanks of the Wadi Araba-Dead Sea rift valley rise more dramatically to higher altitudes in Jordan than those on the west. The deeply dissected and surprisingly well vegetated mountains rise to up 1736m before sloping off to the interior desert and finally the Azraq and Al Jafr basins. To the northeast lies the distinctive Basalt Desert, whilst in the northwest the Highlands have a Mediterranean climate and corresponding flora and fauna.
Petra
Petra is justifiably renowned for its archaeological wonders, but the tourist tracks also allow easy access into the mountains of the Southern Rift Margin. Approach is on foot (or horse) from the village of Wadi Musa through a narrow gorge (the Siq) to Al Khazna. At least one full day is needed to explore the High Place, Ad Dayr (with views down towards Wadi Araba) and the bushes and spring in Wadi as Siyyagh - all good for birds at the same time as you take in the sites.
The main attraction at Petra is the resident and reasonably common Sinai Rosefinch which can be most easily seen in the Siq and en route to Ad Dayr (frequently drinking at the Qattar ad Dayr spring). For a chance of hearing or glimpsing the other Petra speciality - Hume's Tawny Owl - it is necessary to stay in the area of the Urn Tomb or the Siq as night falls and then be prepared to make the eerie walk out.
Other typical breeding birds of the Petra area include Bonelli's Eagle, Sooty Falcon, Barbary Falcon, Scops Owl, Pallid Swift, Rock Martin, Blackstart, Mourning and White-crowned Black Wheatears, Scrub Warbler, Orange-tufted Sunbird, Fan-tailed Raven, Tristram's Grackle, Rock Sparrow and House Bunting. Many of the raptors that pass over Eilat in spring subsequently make use of the thermals which form over the mountains on the Jordanian side of the rift; they pass over Petra in large numbers as they head north. The best observation points are at Ad Dayr and near the restaurant area. The list of migrants recorded at Petra, particularly in spring, is impressive; they can drop in anywhere especially in the vegetated wadis and near any trace of water. In winter a few Tristram's Serins have been seen, often with Goldfinch flocks.
Wadi Dana
Further north along the rift margin is Wadi Dana, one of Jordan's most dramatic and unspoilt wadis and a reserve of the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (Jordan). The surrounding hills reach 1500m and hold a rich and distinct, high altitude avifauna. The wadi itself runs down to Wadi Araba and contains different habitats which can only be reached on foot or by four-wheel drive. There is an official camp site and several view points on the northern rim overlooking the wadi. In this vicinity several drinking pools have been provided and, in dry periods, these prove a great attraction for the local birds, especially Sinai Rosefinch. The camp is signposted and is reached by taking the quarry road north and then west from the Ar Rashadiyya cement factory.
Although the bird community of the cliffs and rocky areas is similar to that of Petra, here you also have access to the birds of the higher hill tops. Specialities here include Tristram's Serin (resident on the upper wooded slopes of oak and juniper), Cretzschmar's Bunting (summer visitors to these same areas), Spectacled Warbler (fairly common on the upland scrub) and Pale Rock Sparrow (bred in 1994, at least). Isolated populations of Orphean Warbler and Woodlark have also been recently discovered in this highland habitat.
The wadi cliffs are ideal breeding habitat for birds of prey which include Griffon Vulture, Bonelli's Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Barbary Falcon, Eagle Owl and Hume's Tawny Owl. In addition the raptor migration route described at Petra subsequently passes over Wadi Dana, so as many as 20 species of raptor (resident and migrant) can be seen on spring days.
Wadi Rum
The Rum Desert is an extensive area of dramatic sandstone mesas that rise up to 800m from the surrounding sea of sand. Leave the Desert Highway at Ar Rashidiyya and take the 28 km of tarmac road to the Rest House and Police Post.
The majority of the local species can be seen from this road; a particularly productive area being 3km north of Rum village. Here, in an area of cliffs, boulder slopes and sandy desert with bushes, it should be possible to find Long-legged Buzzard, Sand Partridge, Desert Lark, Rock Martin, Mourning and White-crowned Black Wheatear, Scrub Warbler, Brown-necked Raven, Trumpeter Finch, Sinai Rosefinch and House Bunting. A few Hooded Wheatear are also resident but can be very difficult to pin down.
The settlement itself is good for Sinai Rosefinch and Tristram's Grackle and migrants are often concentrated here or at the springs at the base of the cliffs behind the Rest House. Some of the more unusual migrants recorded here include River Warbler, Olive-tree Warbler, Semi-collared Flycatcher and Isabelline Shrike.
Migrating raptors pass over the mountains, but of the local breeding species Verreaux's Eagle and Sooty Falcon are of particular note. The Verreaux's Eagle, although common in Africa, is one of the most sought-after of Western Palearctic specialities; the best place to look for it is high over the rounded, white mountain tops of Wadi Rum. A few pairs of Sooty Falcon breed on the neighbouring cliff faces, but are only present between May and October.
Wadi Rum is but a small corner of this dramatic landscape. Exploration of the surrounding area requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, which can be hired with driver from Rum village. A particularly scenic area, with local birds and migrants is the Rakabat Canyon in nearby Wadi Umm Ishrin.
Aqaba
Although Aqaba lies adjacent to Eilat at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba, it remains virtually unvisited by birdwatchers and here you will have no choice but to find your own birds. Although the same variety of birds must pass over, many migrants, let alone vagrants, are still waiting to be seen here.
At least two areas have proved good for migrants (although there will be many more): the old palms and irrigated farm plots which stretch from the Ayla archaeological site south towards the port and the undeveloped ground with scattered palms inland from the beach hotels, including the traffic islands and road-side bushes on the circular road to the Hippic Club and beyond. Resident Indian House Crows are common in the palms around the town.
A few birds of prey do pass over and more follow the ridge of mountains east of the town, but in this region the main flow of birds hugs the Israeli side of the Gulf of Aqaba until north of the town.
The best site for seawatching appears to be the jetty of the Aquamarina Hotel as it offers a clear view in all directions. The optimum time is probably in the first few hours after daybreak, as the light gets progressively more difficult towards the afternoon. Although Israeli observations tend to suggest that the seabirds should be more easily seen off Aqaba than Eilat, when watching from Jordan the opposite seems to be the case - presumably they must be somewhere in between! Seabirds feed along the Aqaba shore and around the dock area. To the south, towards the Saudi border, there are several bays good for roosting gulls, terns and waders and small areas of cover for migrants. This is also the best area to look for Western Reef Heron.
Eilat has a far more impressive list of seabird species than Aqaba currently has, but of course, most will have been visible from both countries if anyone had been watching. Of the more regular seabirds Cory's Shearwater, Brown Booby, White-eyed Gull, Bridled Tern, White-cheeked Tern and skuas can be noted.
A recently-discovered sewage treatment plant adjacent to the Israeli border can at present only be visited with military permission, but things may change. The area has huge potential with extensive areas of irrigated palms and crops, in addition to the areas of open water.
The new "back road" from the port to Wadi al Yutum crosses some apparently barren gravel fans, but preliminary exploration of the acacia-lined wadis has revealed at least Little Green Bee-eater, Arabian Warbler and Hooded Wheatear.
Interior deserts
Low relief deserts cover much of eastern Jordan and have been best explored in the area between Amman and Azraq. For those arriving from Aqaba the nearest example of this habitat lies between Ma'an and Al Jafr and here is should be possible to see the commonest lark of this habitat - the Temminck's Horned Lark. Hoopoe Lark, Desert Wheatear and Cream-coloured Courser are also widespread. In the Azraq area Red-rumped Wheatear and Thick-billed Lark are local specialities, as are a significant number of wintering Imperial Eagles.
Other sites in the north
A full 10-14 day trip to Jordan should attempt to take in the whole range of habitats, including the Azraq oasis, Basalt Desert and Northern Highlands.
The name Azraq conjures up images of a lush oasis brimming with wildlife and a magnet for migrant birds in a sea of desert. Nowadays visitors are often disappointed and the success of a visit depends largely on the amount of run-off water that has accumulated in the mudflat (or qa') during the previous winter. The oasis itself is a depressing sight and hardly worth a visit these days.
The springs used to flow water at a combined rate of some 7.5 million gallons per day which allowed an extensive marsh of meadows, bushes and pools to develop around them (Nelson, 1973). However since 1980 increasing amounts of water have been pumped to supply the capital and taken by local agricultural projects. Flow into the marshes soon reduced and by 1990 the outflows from the pools had totally dried up.
Although a poor shadow of its former glory, Azraq can still turn up some excellent birds and sometimes in overwhelming numbers. With luck White-tailed Plover and Greater Sand Plover will continue to be seen, even if they no longer have sufficient habitat in which to breed. Passerine migrants still flock to the cover provided by Azraq, the nearby Shaumari Wildlife Reserve headquarters and tree-lined Wadi al Butm. In spring it may be possible to find Cyprus Wheatear, Semi-collared Flycatcher and White-throated Robin amongst the commoner species.
The main attractions of the Basalt Desert, north of Azraq, are the dark plumaged Desert Larks and wheatears. These can be found by the roadside along the first 10km of the As Safawi to Iraq road. The wheatears, currently taken to be a local morph of the Mourning Wheatear, were originally identified as opistholeuca race Eastern Pied Wheatears. You can make up our own mind, but only DNA studies are likely to prove their true affinity.
The habitats of the Northern Highlands will add significantly to the variety of birds seen on a trip to Jordan. Many will be familiar or of Mediterranean character, although here at the south-eastern limit of their range (i.e. Blue Tit). Migrants abound in spring and autumn, but Spectacled Warbler, Upcher's Warbler and Black-headed Bunting also breed. In winter Finsch's Wheatears replace the summer-visiting Black-eared Wheatear.
Wadi Araba, provides a further habitat, but this remains a sensitive area and, at present, best explored on the Israeli side.
Visiting Jordan
Flights
At present there are no charter flights to Jordan, but several international airlines offer a range of prices in the order of £300-£450 return from London. Presumably it should now be possible to make use of cheap flights to Eilat (ca £200) and enter Jordan from there.
Visas
Foreigners need an entry visa, but this can be obtained more cheaply at the airport on arrival (£22 for UK passport holders) rather than at the Jordanian Embassy in London. It used to be essential to have a passport without Israeli stamps, but technically this is no longer the case.
Borders
If arriving overland from a neighbouring country the options are far more varied than previously. It is currently possible to enter Jordan from Syria, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Egypt (via the Nuweiba to Aqaba ferry) and Israel. At the time of writing the Eilat-Aqaba crossing is open Sunday to Thursday from 0800-1400. It is also possible to travel to and from the occupied West Bank via the King Hussein Bridge. However the situation is changing from month to month and if planning to use one of these border crossings it may be advisable to check beforehand.
Travel
For convenience most independent travelers will probably decide to hire a car, and there is a large choice of companies in Aqaba and Amman. Although a car will limit you to the road network, hiring a four-wheel drive is expensive and not essential for the normal sites. A British drivers license is acceptable for a hired car. Petrol is very cheap - less than half the price in UK at 22p/litre.
Although tourists have free access to most of the country, there are currently restrictions close to all the borders (for example, in Wadi Araba, the Jordan Valley and the Yarmuk River area). A military pass (tasriya) is essential to drive along Wadi Araba between Al Karak to Aqaba. This can be easily obtained in Aqaba (on Mut'a Street, behind the Al Amira Haya Hospital) or east of Al Karak (turn west off the King's Highway, 1 km north of the main Route 35-50 junction). In the Jordan Valley there are frequent check-points where you must show your passport.
You may innocently stumble across army camps on your travels. Unfortunately this can hardly be avoided in some cases, as you tend to be given little or no warning as to their location. This lack of Keep Out signs inevitably causes problems, but normally no more than an inconvenience.
Accommodation/camping
A wide range of hotel accommodation, including government-run "rest houses", is available in Aqaba, Petra, Al Karak, Azraq, Ajlun and Irbid, and by the Dead Sea. There are only camp sites at Aqaba, Wadi Rum and Wadi Dana. At the last two tents with mattresses and blankets can be hired (£4-5/per night). It is possible to camp away from camp sites, except of course in military areas.
Food/drink and Ramadan
Local produce, especially bread, fruit, vegetables and soft drinks, is cheap and easy to obtain. Unlike most Arab countries the sale and consumption of alcohol is not prohibited. However during the holy month of Ramadan, a 28-day fasting period, it is bad manners for visitors to eat, drink or smoke in public as those observing the fast will only be able to do so during the hours of darkness. Travellers are technically exempt from fasting, but tourists may experience inconveniences during this period.
Climate
The image of a hot, dusty desert climate only holds true for part of the country and for part of the year. The highlands can be wet and very cold in winter (it can snow heavily) and on high ground spring can be on the pleasantly cool side. The eastern deserts can also be cold in winter but soon warm up for the rest of the year. The Jordan Valley has a mild, moist winter climate and an extremely hot summer.
When to visit
Spring offers the best combination of migrant bird, breeding birds and good weather and any time from late March through to early May can be recommended. However, autumn and winter should not be ignored with many discoveries doubtless still waiting to be made.
References
Andrews, I.J. 1995. The Birds of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, Musselburgh.
Nelson, J.B. 1973. Azraq: Desert Oasis. Allen Lane, London.