Where to Watch Birds at Musselburgh Lagoons (NT346736)

The land is mostly owned by the SSEB and access on foot is allowed in most areas except, for safety reasons, the active lagoons. Park either by the old gas works (Balcarres Road) or at the end of the river-side road (Goosegreen Crescent).

The route taken from here really depends on the state of the tide. At low tide, the river mouth has most activity and from there you can then walk the length of the seawall to look out to sea. At very high tide, although the sea will be worth a look later, it will now be necessary to explore the lagoon areas where the waders and gulls roost. Problems with bad lighting only really affect the river mouth, where it becomes particularly difficult late on a sunny day; early mornings are better.

The best time for a visit is some 3 hours before a spring tide, although later for a neap tide. At this time the waders are gradually pushed off the river mouth and the ducks move closer. When looking out to sea it is difficult to say where the ducks and divers will be. The best strategy is to walk a short way, stop and scan, then repeat as you progress along the sea wall; the east end of the corner lagoon (the 'point') sticks out the furthest and is worth the longest look. You can then walk as far as you wish, but go at least as far as the sewage outflow in the bay, you could then return on a route behind the lagoons. On a rising tide the Fisherrow shore provides an opportunity to get good views of waders, but there are often too many dog walkers.

Along with Aberlady Bay this is the most watched area in the Lothians. At the correct state of the tide it is probably the best place to obtain good views of the common waders, gulls and ducks. The following is a guide of what can be seen at the various seasons.

At this season sea ducks and other water birds are in good numbers, and can be seen well from the seawall especially in calm weather. Long-tailed Duck, Common and Velvet Scoter often congregate in the bay west of the lagoons but you will need a powerful telescope; good numbers are more easily seen from the 'point' area eastwards, which is also a good place to look for divers (mainly Red-throated) and grebes (Great Crested, Slavonian and Red-necked). Eiders congregate around the mussel beds at all but high tide when they then drift offshore some distance. Groups of Goldeneye can be seen off the river mouth and at the sewer outfall and these are also the most favoured sites for the odd Smew. A male Surf Scoter was seen off the river mouth on 13 November 1983, but we are still waiting for our first King Eider to turn up. The famous, large flocks of Scaup (up to 30,000) are unfortunately a thing of the past, recent counts rarely exceed 25.

Auks occur in small numbers, but often close in to the seawall; occasional Black Guillemots and Little Auks are also seen. On 17 November 1985 a total of 233 Little Auks flew east past the lagoons, and larger than usual numbers of the other auks also occurred as part of this 'wreck'.

The mussel beds at the mouth of the Esk have probably always attracted many thousands of feeding waders. Although the construction of the lagoons caused the loss of some of this feeding area, many more birds can now roost in the area rather than making the long flight to other safe roosts such as Aberlady (Furness 1973). Golden Plover, which appear to roost on the mussel beds or lagoons, more often feed inland from Musselburgh.

Gulls, often in hundreds feed and bathe on the river and near the sewer pipe at low tide. These are joined by many more in the evening to form a large roost either out at sea or on the corner lagoon, depending on the weather and tide. If you like gull watching this is the place to scan through for a Glaucous Gull.

Peregrines and Merlins are not resident at Musselburgh, but the area is clearly part of a feeding territory of several individuals, however one bird may only pass through once a day.

The grassy edges to the lagoons and extensive rough ground offer wintering habitat for many finches and buntings. Linnets are the most numerous, followed by Skylarks, but most winters Snow and Lapland Bunting, Twite and occasionally Shore Lark put in an appearance especially in hard weather. Peak numbers are 590 Snow Bunting on 15 February 1977 and 48 Laplands on 15 March 1987. In freezing conditions Skylark often increase in number and infrequent visitors like Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting and Brambling also turn up. A few Rock Pipits regularly winter along the seawall, but there are also signs of a passage in October-November. Short-eared Owl occur infrequently, but good numbers of Partridge can usually be seen.

Slightly up river, Grey Wagtail and Dipper can be seen and in 1984/85 a Kingfisher stayed from 2 October-12 February. In subzero temperatures Little Grebe and even Coot have been seen on the river.

Late winter and early spring often produces a number of good sightings. Out to sea at this season Long-tailed Ducks and Goldeneye display vigorously on fine days and the rarer divers are more likely to be seen.

Gulls are well worth a look in spring. There is a passage of Common Gulls through the area and it is associated with these that we have spotted Mediterranean Gulls and, in 1985, at least one Ring-billed Gull. Musselburgh has had more Mediterranean Gulls than anywhere else in Scotland. Glaucous and Iceland Gulls visit the river mouth and roost more frequently now, but we have also been confused by whiter than white, albinistic Herring Gulls. Although the odd single Lesser Black-backed Gull may overwinter, mid March sees their return passage.

As spring progresses summer visitors put in an appearance: Sandwich, Common Terns, Common Sandpiper, Wheatear and White Wagtails being the most likely. The first hirundines in the region are often spotted on the river in mid April.

Wader passage in spring has its own special features: there is a big passage of Turnstones in late April, peaking at over 400, and Ringed Plover continue to pass through until mid-May. Sanderling, uncommon birds at Musselburgh, occur in small numbers in May (and August).

Musselburgh's breeding birds are relatively few; of the ducks Eider broods are seen and must have bred nearby and Shelduck used to nest in the past; a few pairs of Ringed Plover attempt to breed and miraculously rear young in most years, despite seemingly continuous disturbance from site lorries. A small pool and marshy area, now flattened, provided a fine habitat with Dunlin, Lapwing and Yellow Wagtail breeding in 1987-88. Skylark, Linnet and Partridge also breed.

Return passage starts early and is evident even in June! Curlew numbers build up rapidly in late June and the first Golden Plover, Knot, Bar-tailed Godwit and Grey Plover are recorded soon after. In addition to the normal waders, Whimbrel, Ruff, Greenshank and Spotted Redshank are seen occasionally. A good spell of easterly winds usually brings a small influx of Little Stint and Curlew Sandpiper. North American waders - White-rumped, Buff-breasted and Pectoral Sandpipers, Wilson's Phalarope and American Golden Plover - have also been recorded. Passage waders often feed near the river mouth at low tide but can all to easily disappear in the mass of roosting birds. Small flashes in fields, muddy pools and the edge of the boating pond are other potential wader habitats.

August sees huge numbers of terns, mainly Sandwich resting at the river mouth and lagoons. A peak of over 1000 contains many colour-ringed birds which are thought to come from Aberdeenshire or the Farne Islands. Common Terns increase to over 100, and it seems likely that these originate from the nearby Leith docks colony. In August and September Black Terns, although uncommon, can sometimes be seen fishing at the river mouth. Whilst October-early November is the time when a small number of Little Gulls often pass through. Arctic and Little Terns are uncommon, but Musselburgh has produced two Scottish firsts - Forster's Tern in 1985 and Lesser Crested Tern in 1987.

Wigeon and Teal pass through in autumn and a moulting flock of Red-breasted Merganser builds up to over 400 in late autumn. More unusual ducks, like Pintail and Shoveler, are most likely at this time of the year and a Red-crested Pochard was seen in August 1984. A moulting flock of Great Crested Grebes builds up in numbers to a peak of over 100 in September, but unlike Gosford Bay, Red-necked Grebes usually arrive much later.

Geese are usually only seen on passage. Pinkfeet and Greylags pass over in autumn and during hard weather, and Barnacle Geese have recently been seen flying over with increasing frequency in late September-October. Canada Geese also occur on passage but for this species peak times are in May-June and August-September. Whooper Swans are rare and the only Bewick's Swan record is of a flock of 11 seen on 19 November 1972.

Musselburgh is not ideally sited for seawatching, but every year a good number of skuas and Manx Shearwaters are seen. In summer Arctic Skuas and shearwaters feeding in the Forth can be seen from the 'point', but in autumn larger passages occur in northerly and easterly gales. The lagoons are very exposed and in good passage conditions it is difficult to find shelter - try in the lee of the hut at the river mouth or below the seawall. Arctic Skuas are many times more common than Greats and some clearly congregate in the bay off Eastfield before making their way back out to sea. Long-tailed Skua, Pomarine Skua and Sabine's Gull are rare autumn seabirds to look out for.

There is little cover for migrant passerines at present. Wheaters occur on passage and may be associated with the odd Whinchat or Yellow Wagtail. Rarities include Tawny Pipit, Citrine Wagtail and Short-toed Lark.