15 April
Our flight from Heathrow to Amman via Berlin made its final approach over Israel, but it was too dark to see much. We met Lu'ai (our local guide) and Shakeeb (our driver) who were to look after us so well over the next 2 weeks.
16 April
On our first morning, we drove down past the 'sea level' sign to the shore of the Dead Sea and then south to the new Mujib bridge which crosses the Wadi al Mujib as it emerges from its steep-sided gorge. We explored the Mujib delta, a small 'agricultural station' and the gorge. A fine Bonelli's Eagle circled over, and there was speculation as to what it was carrying in its talons. Other highlights included Rock Martin, Desert Lark, Blackstart, Tristram's Grackle, Fan-tailed Raven, Brown-necked Raven and Spanish Sparrow, and a Rufous Bush Robin sang near the oleanders that line the river. We also watched the first of many fine Masked Shrikes, and a Golden Spiney Mouse. At Suwayma, the tamarisk thicket contained several Dead Sea Sparrow nests, and with a bit of perseverance, we all got good views of this local speciality. A fine Black-headed Wagtail also performed well.
It was a hot day, and a long lunch break included a dip in the Dead Sea for those who wanted to experience it.
The Shuna Reservoir at the base of Wadi Shu'ayb gave us our first chance to see a variety of water birds, including close Cattle Egrets and Spur-winged Plovers, and more distant Marsh Sandpipers. A flock of Jackdaw, a rare species in Jordan, was also seen. Further up the same wadi, we stopped for our final birding of the day amidst orange orchards and Mediterranean scrub. Highlights included Cretzschmar's Bunting, Syrian Woodpecker, Smyrna Kingfisher (with thin snake), Jay (of the local race) and a passage of Short-toed Eagles.
17 April
This morning we headed north from Amman, passing the Baqa'a refugee camp on our way to the Zarqa River and King Talal Dam. Long-billed Pipit, our target species, proved elusive to start with, but we were eventually rewarded with splendid, close views of a displaying male. In trying to search out the pipits, Bob instead flushed out a Red Fox. We explored the slopes with olive orchards and abundant flowers, and saw Woodchat Shrike, Black-eared Wheatear, Olivaceous Warbler and Ortolan Bunting. Raptors passing overhead included 2 close Hobby and a trickle of Steppe Buzzards and Steppe Eagles.
On reaching the Dibbin Forest, we immediately noticed European influences - Blackbird, Wren, Jay and Blue Tit! A Lesser Whitethroat was nest building above our shady picnic site, and we noted its very different song to our British birds. Some Crag Martins flew over.
The whole afternoon was spent exploring the extensive ruins of Roman Jerash on the edge of the modern town. The fine pillars and buildings provided photogenic song posts for Blue Rock Thrush and Black-eared Wheatear.
18 April
On our way to Azraq, we stopped at two of the Desert Castles. First was Qasr Kharana and after a brief tour, we explored the surrounding desert. A desert race Little Owl was watched before it flew into a possible nest hole in the castle, and within the enclosure we saw a Desert Wheatear and several migrants; some of the group saw a female Red-rumped Wheatear. Out in the flat desert, we had excellent views of a group of Temminck's Horned Lark.
Qasr Amra was rather crowded, but those who wanted to got a look inside. Others explored in the vicinity and managed to find Stone-curlew, Barred Warbler and Ménétries' Warbler. We picnicked in the nearby tree-lined wadi and caught up with a good selection of migrants despite the brisk wind. In fact we had superb views of several Thrush Nightingales, our first Wryneck and a late, female Rüppell's Warbler.
We checked into the Azraq Resthouse, and were greeted by a male Pied Flycatcher at the door (a taste of the migrants that were later seen in the gardens). We then set off for the Azraq Wetland Reserve and its new visitor centre. The Azraq wetland is now only a small remnant of its former glory, and is kept ticking over by international aid which pays for water to be pumped from the Azraq-Amman pipeline. From the roof of the new visitor's centre we saw Marsh Harrier, and on our walk we soon saw Reed and Sedge Warbler plus some waterbirds from the hide. The area looked ideal for crakes, and eventually we saw a Little Crake. Good views of Squacco Heron, Purple Heron, several Collared Pratincoles, and masses of hirundines kept us occupied until dusk. Unfortunately, the hoped for Egyptian Nightjars did not perform tonight.
19 April
Early morning exploration around the Resthouse proved very productive. Migrants included Thrush Nightingale, Tree Pipit, Turtle Dove, Wryneck plus the now familiar Lesser Whitethroat, Blackcap (by the tree full) and Redstart. A couple of Desert Finches also gave excellent views just outside.
After breakfast, we headed out on the road to Iraq (with stops for road sign photos!). Just past As Safawi (and long before the border) we explored the basalt desert. Our target species were soon found - the 'Basalt Wheatear' (=dark morph of Mourning Wheatear) and the dark Desert Larks (=annae subspecies). We saw c.10 species on our circuit, including Desert Wheatear and Temminck's Horned Lark.
After a tour of Azraq Castle, we lunched and set out for Shaumari. But we were not prepared for the gale and associated sand/dust storm that blew up that afternoon. We managed to see a Hoopoe Lark and some of the re-introduced Oryx from the bus, but sadly the sand storm made further birdwatching impossible. Back at the Resthouse, with trees swaying and dust filling the air, a few migrants were located, including a Barred Warbler cowering in the middle of bush.
20 April
A pre-breakfast walk around the Azraq Resthouse produced the usual suspects, plus a very obliging Scops Owl found roosting in a tree just outside the restaurant!
The drive back across the flat desert took us through the southern outskirts of Amman (and through a light shower) to Madaba, where we had a chance to study the 5th Century mosaic map. Next, we stopped briefly at the Wadi al Mujib viewpoint, but there was still rather a lot of dust in the air. As the bus slowly climbed up the opposite side of this dramatic wadi, we saw Little Swifts and an Egyptian Vulture at eye level. There was great anticipation as we approached the Black Iris spot, and luckily Jordan's national flower put on a good show. The fields at this site were full of larks, but this year the usual Calandras were replaced by Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed Larks (and eventually we all had good views of both on the ground). The guided tour of Karak Castle took us undergound through the many passageways and rooms, and also allowed us to see Rock Sparrow, Blue Rock Thrush and close views of screaming Alpine Swifts. But we still had some distance to drive, and we continued through the dramatic scenery of Wadi al Hasa and Tafila until we reached Dana.
We took the shuttle bus down from the tower to the camp site, where we were made most welcome by the staff. We instantly saw that the borrage flowers around the camp were decked with Orange-tufted Sunbirds, and these were to be a constant source of entertainment throughout our stay - and the subject of much photography. We also saw our first Honey Buzzards of the trip.
It was decidedly dusty and there was a noticeable drop in temperature during the evening, but that certainly didn't stop us from celebrating the combined FIVE birthdays that were to occur during the trip! Lu'ai managed to find a splendid cake in Madaba decorated with a huge smiling face.
21 April
This was our full day exploring the Dana area. We started off with a pre-breakfast walk in the vicinity of the camp. We saw Chukar, and heard Woodlark singing. Next, we took the bus in the direction of the Barra Forest, and then walked back to Dana village. On this leisurely walk, we made many stops to take in excellent views of the local birds (and the wadi below us). To name but a few, these included Griffon Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Barbary Falcon, Upcher's Warbler, Cretzschmar's Bunting and Rock Sparrow. Unfortunately, we had only tantalising glimpses of Syrian Serin - but we made up for that later... We lunched at the Dana Guesthouse, with its amazing view, and visited the RSCN shop that sells locally produced crafts and jewellery.
Back at the campsite, much of the afternoon was spent watching around a small water trough, constructed for birds to drink from. We managed excellent views of Syrian Serins, not only at the pool, but also in the trees nearby. Bulbul numbers were difficult to estimate, but they were continually at or around the pool. We also managed to best appreciate the spectacular scenery as the air thankfully cleared dramatically. Mario walked up Rummana Hill behind the camp.
22 April
The pre-breakfast walk took the same route as yesterday's, but today we saw and heard Orphean Warbler and Spectacled Warbler. Later, we also had time to revisit the drinking pool - with more excellent views of Syrian Serins (and Bulbuls) especially for those inside the hide. From a viewpoint, we looked down to find two Rock Hyraxes - increasing, but still quite a rarity here. A few raptors were moving, including a Hobby and an Eleanora's Falcon (a vagrant here).
But, all too soon, it was time to leave Dana and continue our journey south along the King's Highway. Local circumstances meant that we visited Shawbak Castle en route (instead of Little Petra). A picnic stop in the orchards below the castle gave us an opportunity to see a good selection of migrants before our guided tour of the castle itself.
Later in the afternoon, we arrived at the 5* Petra Plaza Hotel, where we made the most of the facilities - including the disco (well, it was closed and it was the best room in which to do the daily log!).
23 April
Easter Sunday. Petra. We arrived early to find the car park closed - the King needed it for a helipad! We soon met our guide and began our full day's exploration of this awe inspiring site. Some of the group ascended to the High Place of Sacrifice, whilst other explored the Royal Tombs, but not before a 'lecture' on the geology and those fascinating rock patterns - Liesegang banding. After lunch, we set off up the 800 steps to the Monastery, but it was well worth it! It was there that we saw one of the rare, blue Sinai Agama lizards. Birds were not numerous today, but we managed to see Long-legged Buzzard, Mourning Wheatear, White-crowned Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Tristram's Grackle, Scrub Warbler plus a few migrants. Not to forget the stunning Sinai Rosefinches, that are so much a part of the Petra experience. Sadly, we dipped on the King, and only saw his helicopter flying low overhead.
After the disco, we headed back to our rooms, but Jean spotted a bird in the 'atrium' by the hotel rooms. Amazingly, it turned out to be a male Semi-collared Flycatcher. We managed to catch it, and put it outside in one of the trees to roost (hopefully).
24 April
It was sunny but cool when we stopped in the Sharra Highlands at 1600 m to look at Isabelline Wheatears. Again, we had fun sorting out the larks.
It didn't take long to warm up as we descended into the Rum desert. Our next birding was in Wadi Rum itself, where we saw White-crowned Black Wheatear, Desert Lark and Scrub Warbler. The middle of the day was spent scanning the cliffs and sky for Verreaux's Eagle - but it was not to be.
The jeep drive out to our tented camp in the nearby wadi was fast ... After getting bounced around and stuck in the sand, we arrived in Wadi Umm Ishrin and we were soon exploring and taking pictures of the stunning views. Understandably, this was the highlight of the trip for quite a few of us. Birds around the camp and up the nearby canyon included Sinai Rosefinch, Scrub Warbler and White-crowned Black Wheatear. Migrant Thrush Nightingale, Wood Warbler and Orphean Warbler were also seen in the White Broom bushes.
Our evening meal arrived by jeep, and what a spread it was. We were just getting ready for bed when a Hume's Tawny Owl started hooting from the nearby cliff. Some of us set off with torches, others arrived after getting dressed again - Bridget making a particularly memorable entrance, tumbling over a bush in the dark! (sorry Bridget, but I had to add that). Amazingly, we managed to see the owl in the torch light.
25 April
We awoke to find that Bob had been up at 3 a.m. and seen a Hume's Tawny Owl on the water container, just feet from our tents! Others had heard at least two birds from their tents.
Both before and after breakfast we managed further exploration around the sand dune and up the canyon, taking many more pictures on our way. Then it was jeeps back to Rum village, where we picked up our coach and headed off down Wadi al Yutum to Aqaba.
We stopped off to pick up our military permission for the sewage works - our thanks must go to the Water Authority staff for getting this sorted out so efficiently. After a quick shower, it was out to a local restaurant for lunch, and down to the public beach. We soon saw many Indian House Crows, which are rapidly reaching pest proportions in Aqaba. The allotments near the beach were excellent for migrants and we soon saw even more Thrush Nightingales, a number of Olivaceous/Upcher's Warblers, Masked Shrikes and trees full of Blackcaps etc etc.
26 April
The sewage works turned out to be a good as ever, despite the strong north wind that made things difficult at times. Within the first few minutes we had spotted Ferruginous Duck and a male Levant Sparrowhawk roosting in a eucalyptus tree ... but there was seldom a time when there was nothing to look at. Ducks included 20 Garganey. Amongst the waders were Curlew Sandpiper, Temminck's Stint, Pacific Golden Plover, Marsh Sandpiper, Broad-billed Sandpiper and Red-necked Phalarope. A flock of gulls included a first-summer Great Black-headed Gull and some Slender-billed Gulls, and Caspian and Whiskered Terns were seen. Then there were the raptors. The northerly gale meant that the raptors were having to keep low and also having to tack across from Eilat to Aqaba in order to make any progress on their northward migration. We were in an ideal position to watch the procession of Levant Sparrowhawks, Honey Buzzards and Steppe Buzzards as they flew over. What a sight! Imperial and Booted Eagles were also seen overhead. The small birds were difficult in the strong wind, but we did manage to find some Little Green Bee-eaters.
We went to the oddly named Japanese Garden restaurant for lunch, and had to disturb a Masked Shrike that was reluctant to leave the shade.
In the late afternoon, some of the group walked from the hotel to some palms and open ground where we saw more Little Green Bee-eaters, and some migrants including a Quail. A brief seawatch at dusk produced a small group of Arctic Skuas harrying the Common Terns offshore.
27 April
We set off to the sewage works a bit earlier today, to make the most of the cooler morning. The wind had dropped considerably, and the birds were superb. In addition to getting better views of yesterday's birds, we also added Little Gull, Corncrake (right in the open), Bar-tailed Godwit (a rarity in Jordan), Arabian Babbler, Subalpine Warbler and Namaqua Dove to the list. We also watched Red-throated Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Wood Warblers etc etc. The raptors were arguably even better than yesterday - and that took some beating. Around 11 o'clock, the Honey Buzzards were in full flow - all different colour phases could be watched low overhead and on the ground. Then there were the Levant Sparrowhawks - thousands of them in great swirling masses just over tree level. What a performance!
Some went snorkelling in the afternoon at the Royal Diving Center where there were migrants everywhere, including Rufous Bush Robin. A visit to the beach towards dusk produced another huge flock of Levant Sparrowhawks arriving off the sea, and Arctic Skua and Sooty Shearwater over the Gulf of Aqaba.
28 April
Our journey back to Amman took us up Wadi Araba, where we stopped near Fidan for a look at the flat desert. There were more birds that first expected, especially as small groups of Spotted Sandgrouse flew over us as soon as we got out of the bus. We managed good views of Bar-tailed Desert Lark and Hoopoe Lark before moving to an area of acacias. Here it was Margaret who spotted the target species - Arabian Warbler, which gave excellent views along with Blackstart, another Subalpine Warbler and more Little Green Bee-eaters.
We then drove further north to As Safi where our lunch stop coincided with a visit to Lot's Cave. Next, we paused beside the Dead Sea to see so-called 'Lot's Wife', then back past the Mujib bridge (where our trip had started) and up to Amman.
29 April
Some of the group made the short taxi journey down to the amphitheatre and adjacent museum of costumes and jewellery before we had to leave for Queen Alia International Airport. Our flight was on time, and we arrived safely back at Heathrow.
This year's trip was some 2 weeks later than other Naturetrek trips, with the result that we witnessed a different snapshot in the spring migration through Jordan. The final bird list of the tour totalled 183 species.
Ian Andrews (leader)