4 April
We arrived at Amman's Queen Alia International Airport on RJ118 from Heathrow via a scheduled stop in Berlin. We were driven straight to the Shepherd Hotel.
5 April
With our guide Louis (or strictly Lu'ai) we drove down, past the Sea Level marker, to our first stop of the holiday by the shore of the Dead Sea. Hotel building at our usual first stop, gave us an opportunity to explore further south, at the mouth of Wadi al Mujib. Here we were introduced to many of the local specialities, plus a vagrant Icterine Warbler. We moved onto an area of Tamarix scrub to find Dead Sea Sparrows singing above their nests.
Before lunch at the Suwayma Resthouse some of the group floated on the Dead Sea, and then we set off back towards Amman. Following a brief roadside stop at Shuna Reservoir at the foot of Wadi Shu'ayb, we headed up this lush valley to explore the Mediterranean habitats. Night at the Shepherd Hotel.
6 April
North of Amman, we visited the Zarqa River (for Long-billed Pipit) and the King Talal Dam. In the vehicles we then climbed up to the Dibbin Forest. Here we found several species of orchid amongst the Aleppo Pines and Strawberry Trees. Close to our picnic spot a pair of nesting European Serins was noteworthy. The leader tried to generate some enthusiasm for the locally rare Blue Tit, but the search for Syrian Woodpecker proved more popular!
Then we moved on for a full afternoon at the Roman Decapolis city of Jerash (Gerasa). Our expert guide showed us the temples, theatres and churches apparently unperturbed when the group’s attention was sidetracked by a close Wryneck or a Levant Sparrowhawk flying over. Spiral after spiral of Buzzards flew overhead. Night at the Shepherd Hotel.
7 April
En route to Azraq we stopped at Qasr al Kharana, and then walked out in the desert towards a Stone Age flint mound. Once tracked down Desert Wheatear and Temminck's Horned Lark both put on a fine display.
A short distance further east, we visited the Omayyad bath-house of Qasr Amra - but an obliging pair of Desert Finch tried to distract us. After eating our picnic lunches, we explored the tree-lined wadi for migrant birds, which included a Nightingale and a Robin!
The Azraq "oasis" now consists of one meagre pool and its surrounding vegetation, but it still proved to be a excellent place to spend the last hour of daylight. A Little Crake, a male Semi-collared Flycatcher and four Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters were excellent value. A brief excursion to the edge of the flooded qa’ (mudflat) whet our appetite for an early start next day. Night at Azraq Resthouse.
8 April
At dawn we explored the eastern side of the qa’, and although many birds were rather distant, wetland birds were quite numerous. After breakfast we drove towards Iraq to explore the black basalt desert at a 'totally random site' 9 km east of As Safawi. Our main objective, the localised black morph of the Mourning Wheatear, was soon located. Excellent views of dark Desert Larks and a blue Sinai Agama lizard were also appreciated by the group.
We toured Azraq Castle (a Roman outpost also used by Lawrence) and had lunch at the Hunter's Restaurant.
Our specially-arranged afternoon expedition gave us a taste of the true desert, although things were not quite as planned! Dr Zuhair Amr (from the Jordan University of Science and Technology) and Adnan Budeiri (from the RSCN) had arranged a 4WD trip to Dakhikiya near the Saudi border. In the event, we took our own vehicles along the desert tracks to a fascinating area, but unfortunately the hoped-for Eagle Owls had moved elsewhere. Night at Azraq Resthouse.
9 April
Before breakfast we fitted in an excursion to Shaumari, to see the captive-bred Oryx, Ostriches, Onagers and Dorca’s Gazelles. The last bit of road was flooded, but this proved a added attraction for migrants.
This was a travelling day with several stops through the dramatic scenery of the King's Highway. After crossing the desert back towards Amman, we stopped at Madaba to see the mosaic map in St George's Church. Next stop was at Wadi al Mujib and then a lunch/photo stop for Black Irises and Calandra Larks.
Our fascinating tour of Karak Castle took us through the numerous underground rooms and passages. During the latter part of our journey to Dana we stopped to watch a feeding flock of Lesser Kestrels. We took the shuttle bus down the steep hill from the tower to the camp site where Abu Bilal (the site manager) and Ghazi (the chief ranger) waiting to welcome us. What a spectacular site! Night in tents, Dana campsite.
10 April
Some of the group enjoyed a pre-breakfast walk near the camp. A singing male Spectacled Warbler was a highlight. Later we ambled through oak and juniper woods at Barra, and were surrounded by displaying Tristram's Serins, a local speciality. Our walk ended in the Dana conservation village, where repopulation of the ancient hill village is being encouraged. We were impressed to see the variety of high quality gifts on sale at the RSCN shop and enjoyed a splendid lunch at their new guest house.
The afternoon was free for exploration around the campsite and we took the opportunity to study birds and flowers close to the camp. A fine Orphean Warbler and a handsome male Nubian Ibex were seen. Night in tents, Dana campsite.
11 April
It was a job to drag ourselves away from spectacular Dana! As we waited for the Shuttle Bus a resident Barbary Falcon joined several hundred passage raptors passing over the camp site.
Having just spent two nights camping, the 5-star Petra Plaza Hotel was a bit of a culture shock! We made the most of its luxuries!
The Little Petra - Al Bayda area was an ideal introduction to Petra's archaeology and birds. By the 9000 year old village we found our second male Semi-collared Flycatcher. Night at the Petra Plaza Hotel.
12 April
We entered the siq as early as we could (with a hot day forecast) and began our tour of Petra's high places (yes, two in one day!). After photographing the Treasury, the group climbed the steps to the High Place and then down through Wadi Farasa. Here, we had discussions about the amazing rock patterns (Liesegang rings) for which Petra is famous. After a leisurely lunch, we climbed to the Monastery and then returned to the siq - a total round trip of some 12 km (7-8 miles). Night at the Petra Plaza Hotel.
13 April
After leaving our hotel we drove along the Sharra Highlands (1600 m altitude), descended the Ras an Naqab escarpment and made for the Wadi Rum Resthouse for lunch. The local pair of Verreaux's Eagles conveniently performed above the high cliffs as soon as we opened the doors and eventually we pinned down a singing House Bunting amongst the piles of boulders. It got rather hot as we rested in the bedouin tent.
As the temperature cooled in the mid afternoon we boarded the jeeps which took us to our camp in the next wadi - Wadi Umm Ishrin. The two-man tents and bedouin tent had been well set out behind a high sand dune. We walked into the Rakabat Canyon and admired the view from the top of the dune (see cover of "The Book"!). After dinner, the hoots of the Hume’s Tawny Owl echoed around the camp, but our shadows projected onto the high cliffs by the camp fire must have put it off. Night in tents, Wadi Umm Ishrin.
14 April
Before breakfast we walked to see some ancient petroglyphs or "rock art" and Sand Partridge were seen well. We also returned up the Canyon and the House Buntings finally gave close views. Two young Ibex also walked past on the rocks above us - a rare sight indeed. After a delay, the jeeps took us back to Rum where we saw Verreaux’s Eagle (again) and rejoined the vehicles to continue down to Aqaba.
The heatwave was now breaking all records - it was an incredible 41°C (106°F) in Aqaba, c12 degrees above average. We lunched at Al Shami Restaurant and then, much later, the group went to the south beaches to birdwatch until dusk. An approachable Dunn’s Lark was the highlight, possibly blown in on the hot air stream from the east. Night at the Aquamarina 2 Hotel, Aqaba.
15 April
With our military permission, the whole morning was spent at the sewage works. Here we met the plant's manager, Jamal Reyati, who kindly provided us with tea at his birdwatching tower - built especially for Naturetrek! The heat didn't abate and at 11 o’clock we struggled back to the vehicles. The numerous ducks, waders and gulls had provided us with some excellent birding - highlights being Spoonbill, Slender-billed Gull, Armenian Gull, Marsh Sandpiper, Black-winged Pratincole and a sadly-dead Bittern. Plain Tigers (migratory, Monarch-type butterflies) were also remarkably common today.
Lunch was again at Al Shami and the group was free until an optional pre-dusk walk. Night at the Aquamarina 2 Hotel.
16 April
We planed our repeat visit to the sewage works so that we could start even earlier and Lu’ai arranged a picnic breakfast. Western Reef Heron, Little Tern, Red-throated Pipit and Citrine Wagtail were added to our list. We were photographed and interviewed by the Jordanian Al-Dustour newspaper. Our two days at the sewage works has produced an impressive 68 species!
The afternoon was free for snorkelling, shopping or swimming, and for those who missed the White-eyed Gull at the Royal Diving Centre an evening trip down the coast luckily produced three more. Night at the Aquamarina 2 Hotel.
17 April
The hot weather again dominated our thoughts, so after an early breakfast we left Aqaba to drive back north to Amman. Luckily it had cooled significantly at our first stop at Fidan (Wadi Araba), where we found all the target species within a very short distance – displaying Bar-tailed Desert and Hoopoe Larks and a pair of Cream-coloured Coursers – we didn’t know where to look first! Two large Dhabb lizards were also scoped by their burrows. Next we explored round some acacias (by an "abandoned" army camp) which also turned up trumps with an Arabian Warbler and several Arabian Babblers.
We then continued north along the Rift Valley stopping at Lot's Cave at As Safi for lunch. By chance, our visit coincided with that of Dino Politis (the site’s chief archaeologist) who was able to give us a guided tour and privileged access to the cave itself. No wonder the Sinai Agamas were approachable – the archaeologists feed them! This was our last stop before Amman. Night in the Shepherd Hotel.
18 April
In the morning, before we had to leave some of the group visited the Amman amphitheatre and others the Citadel Museum.
Our direct flight back to Heathrow (RJ111) left on time despite some problems with overbooked seats.
The final bird list of the tour totalled 173 species.
Ian Andrews (leader)