NATURETREK - JORDAN - 3-17 APRIL 1999 - Diary

After flying via Berlin, the group arrived safely at Queen Alia Airport at sunset and transferred to the Shepherd Hotel in Amman city.

A warm, sunny day with a gentle westerly breeze. After breakfast, we drove down to the mouth of Wadi Mujib by the shores of the Dead Sea. Our first taste of Jordanian birding proved very exciting with two Bonelli's Eagles close overhead, Tristram's Grackles trilling atmospherically around the crags and good views of both White-crowed Wheatears and Masked Shrikes. Next, we explored an area of tamarisks at nearby Suweimah, where we all eventually saw Dead Sea Sparrows singing by their extraordinary stick nests.

After lunch at the Suweimah resthouse and a dip in the Dead Sea for some, we drove to the Shuna Reservoir, where a range of water birds included a fine Glossy Ibis, lots of egrets and several Spur-winged Plovers. We finished the day among the dry stony hillsides and lush valley groves of Wadi Shu'ayb, with such typical Mediterranean bird species as Cretzschmar's Buntings and Woodchat Shrikes.

Sunny, very warm, westerly breeze. Travelling north from Amman, we visited the Zarqa River valley and King Talal Dam. Bird highlights included White-breasted Kingfisher, European Bee-eaters, singing Sardinian Warblers and a fine migrant Steppe Eagle. Next, we drove up to the Dibbin Forest for a picnic under the Aleppo pine and Strawberry trees and found four species of orchids plus several Blue Tits, a speciality of the area.

After lunch, we moved on to the Roman decapolis city of Jerash. An expert local guide showed us the temples, theatres and mosaics, whilst some of us kept an eye on the local Black-eared Wheatears, Red-rumped Swallows and Starred Agamas.

Sunny, with scattered cloud and a north-westerly breeze freshening in the afternoon. En route to Azraq our planned walk in the stony desert behind Qasr Kharana was thwarted by military activity, so we back-tracked to some nearby roadside rain-pools. Large numbers of migrant Short-toed Larks were stopping to drink and amongst them we picked out a couple of Temminck's Larks and an unexpected Bimaculated Lark. To everyone's delight, a superb male Pallid Harrier drifted past. We then returned to Qasr Kharana for a look around the castle itself before moving on to Qasr Amra with its intriguing frescos. We ate our picnic lunch amongst the Pistachio trees of Wadi Butm, where two Menetries's Warblers put in a surprise appearance.

After lunch, we continued to Azraq and in a very stiff wind briefly explored the now dry fishpools and then the Shishan Pools nature reserve, before checking in at the Azraq resthouse.

A cool day with stiff NW wind, sunshine and showers. First thing, some of the group explored the resthouse grounds and found trees dripping with Lesser Whitethroats and Blackcaps, and everyone enjoyed good views of two Wrynecks and a Tawny Pipit. After breakfast, we returned to the Shishan Pools reserve and were rewarded with good views of Squacco Heron and Marsh Harrier. Then, we headed out north-east to the basalt desert beyond Safawi. En route we stopped to see a superb Egyptian Vulture, and on the basalt itself we saw both the black morph of Mourning Wheatear and the dark form of Desert Lark, plus some splendid Trumpeter Finches.

Returning to Azraq, we explored the Roman fort and lunched in a restaurant. Then we drove out to Shaumari noting two immaculate Cream-coloured Coursers on the way and enjoyed a windy afternoon looking at Oryx and Ostriches and such bird highlights as Pallid and Marsh Harriers, Desert Finches, Red-throated Pipits and several Steppe Buzzards.

An overcast day, with fresh, cold north-westerly wind and persistent rain for most of the afternoon. After an early exploration of the rest-house grounds, which produced a stunning male Collared Flycatcher, we began the long journey to Dana. After crossing the desert back towards Amman, we stopped at Madaba to see the 6th century mosaic map in St George's Church. Then heading south along the King's Highway and noting Montagu's Harriers, Calandra Larks and Black Irises en route, we reached Wadi Mujib and, unfortunately, the rain. With only intermittent suggestions of the scenic grandeur around us we ate our picnic on the restaurant terrace on the canyon rim and enjoyed our first views of pale phase Mourning Wheatears.

Continuing southwards and stopping for a tour of Karak's spectacular crusader castle and then to view two superb Booted Eagles near Tafila, we reached Dana at sunset. A surprise Eagle Owl provided a fitting reward as we rattled and bumped our way down to Dana camp in the gathering darkness.

Warm and sunny with a north-westerly breeze. Woken at first light by the sound of Chukars and Cuckoos most of us ventured out for an early walk and were suitably impressed by our stunningly beautiful surroundings. early bird highlights included lots of migrant Ortolans, courting Woodchats, a surprise Quail and several stunning Palestine Sunbirds, a feature of our stay at Dana. After breakfast, we drove the short distance to the Barra Forest stopping on the way to watch several superb Lesser Kestrels at close quarters. Barra Forest produced the sought-after Syrian Serins plus an unexpected Hawfinch and then we visited Dana village itself before returning to the campsite for lunch.

Our planned siesta was interrupted by the appearance of two splendid Verreaux's Eagles on the crags above and two smart Short-toed Eagles close overhead. A late afternoon walk concluded a satisfying day with such notable birds as Long-billed Pipits, Orphean Warblers and more Quails.

Sunny, warm, gentle westerly breeze. Another beautiful dawn and an early morning walk with singing Woodlarks and Orphean Warblers. After breakfast and a spectacular fly-past of Griffins and Steppe Eagles we headed south to Wadi Musa. After an impromptu stop for roadside Isabelline Wheatears, disturbingly close to a military base, we arrived at the luxurious Petra Plaza Hotel in good time for lunch. In the afternoon, we explored Little Petra/Al Bayda, a beautiful and atmospheric place and enjoyed our first views of Sinai Rosefinch.

Sunny, scattered cloud, westerly breeze, warm. A full day at Petra. Starting early we walked to the High Place of sacrifice in the morning and (most of us) to the 'Monastery' in the afternoon. Everyone was suitably awed and impressed by this most remarkable and beautiful place. Natural history highlights included several confiding Starred Agamas, one superb blue Sinai Agama and such birds as Sinai Rosefinches, Scrub Warblers, Fan-tailed Raven, Blue Rock Thrush, Mourning Wheatears and a migrant Semi-collared Flycatcher.

A warm, sunny day with a north-westerly wind. We left the Petra area after breakfast and drove up and out of the crumpled sandstone mountains and gorges around Petra and Wadi Musa to the high, dry, rolling limestone plateau of the Sharra Highland. Notable birds along the way included Rock Thrushes and Isabelline Wheatears. Descending into the heat of Wadi Rum, we took a walk along the base of Jebel Rum itself, a world of hot sun, sand flats and towering, red sandstone cliffs. Brown-necked Raven, White-crowned and Mourning Wheatears and Trumpter Finches provided interest as we made our way to the resthouse for lunch.

After lunch, we rested in the Bedouin tent outside and enjoyed good views of Verreaux's Eagle, Sinai Rosefinch, Rock Thrush and an exhausted Bluethroat, sheltering in a flowerbed. In the cool of the late afternoon, we drove out into the spectacular vastness of Wadi Umm Ishrin and arrived at our camp by Rakabat Canyon in good time for a walk to admire both the ancient rock painting and the beautiful sunset.

A beautiful still dawn with a crescent moon and the haunting song of Desert Larks. A pre-breakfast walk was enjoyed by all and the undoubted bird highlight was a fine pair of Hooded Wheatears that allowed everyone good views. After breakfast, we walked into the awesome Rakabat Canyon where a perky Scrub Warbler showed itself well. Then it was time, reluctantly, to leave Wadi Umm Ishrin and heard back to Wadi Rum and so on to Aqaba.

After lunch and a siesta in Aqaba, we took a late afternoon walk to the sea-front and explored what little vegetation there is around Aqaba town. We found a good range of migrants in evidence, including Ortolan Buntings and Thrush Nightingales, Tree Pipits, Rufous Bushchats and a Wryneck.

Sunny, very warm, westerly breeze. After an early morning walk that produced flock after flock of Ortolans plus lots of Thrush Nightingales and other migrants, we made our way to Aqaba sewage works. We spent the whole morning at this super (if rather unlikely) site and saw a wide variety of interesting birds. Amongst the most notable were several Slender-billed Gulls, two Western Reed Herons, a flock of 50 Purple Herons descending from the sky, a lone Temminck's Stint, both Little Green Bee-eater and Pied Kingfisher and lots of striking summer plumaged Red-throated Pipits.

After our restaurant lunch, the afternoon was free and some of the group opted to snorkel at the Royal Diving Centre. A late afternoon sea-watch finished the day with Caspian, Gull-billed and Common Terns and some very distant White-eyed Gulls.

Hot and sunny, with a south-westerly breeze dropping by mid-afternoon. Another early morning walk again revealed lots of small migrants. This morning though Ortolans were fewer, whilst Sylvia warblers were even more numerous and included Common Whitethroats and a splendid barred Warbler. The traffic roundabout with its well watered lawns and shrubberies continued to act like a magnet and this morning held Wryneck, Masked Shrike, thrush Nightingale and Ortolan Bunting - not bad!

After breakfast, we spent another long morning at the sewage works. Squacco Heron and several Pintail and Shoveler were new to the list, whilst Purple Herons now numbered over 100! We enjoyed excellent views of Collared Pratincoles and a range of other waders including Curlew, Wood and Marsh sandpiper and further admired the Red-throated Pipits and smart Yellow Wagtails. Raptor passage continued with at least three fine Booted Eagles close overhead and a final unexpected bonus was a Corncrake that we flushed from the edge of a reedy pool - a definite improvement on the corpse that we found at Dana.

Back to Aqaba for another delicious restaurant lunch, then some of the group opted for a walk along the southern beaches. Weekend crowds, however, limited the possibility of many birds.

Hot, sunny, westerly breeze a.m., still p.m. An early start for the long journey north to Amman through the dramatic scenery of Wadi Araba. Our first stop was at Wadi Fidan, some 140 km north of Aqaba, where we had fine views of displaying Hoopoe Larks, basking Dhab lizards and a surprise Thick-billed Lark. A distant Long-legged Buzzard put in an appearance and we ate our picnic in the welcome shade of some acacias with tea courteously provided by the soldiers stationed nearby.

After lunch, we continued north to Lot's Cave near Safi then on up to Amman passing what appeared to be the entire population of the city picnicking by the roadside and along the shore of the Dead Sea.

The first lie-in of the holiday and a late breakfast, before driving to the airport to check-in for our early afternoon flight back to London.

The final bird list of the tour totalled 176 species.

Andy Smith (leader)

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